St Martin

What exactly is the ultimate beach vacation for you? Is it a crowded sandy area filled with laughter, sandcastles and roaring jet skis? Or is it a calming, relaxing place where the lapping of soft waves and the palm frongs blowing in the wind are the only noises you hear?

It's diffrent for everyone and I entered my beach vacation not really expecting one or the other. I did my best to heavily research the small French/Dutch island (French side is know as Saint-Martin and the Dutch side is Sint Maarten), situated just off of Anguilla and near St. Barts. The 4-hour flight from NYC and reviews by adventure travelers drew me in. But, once we booked our tickets and deliberated over the hotel we couldn't find much more we were dying to do on the island. Assured that I'd figure it out once we arrived I packed up my guidebooks (a.k.a. traveling nerd) and headed off.






Our drive from the airport to our hotel took over an hour, and was approximately 20 miles long. Island-style indeed, we crawled along the 2-lane road at rates of 20-25 MPH and took in the sights at our leisure. The main International airport, Juliana, is located on the Dutch-side of the island, which is located in the southern region. The French-side of the island, which we opted to stay on for it's finer cuisine and beaches, is located to the north of the airport and provided quite a geographical and phonographic change. We drove through mid-sized towns with bus stops, supermarkets and chain restaurants and small agricultural centers.




We drove over steep hills which offered amazing views of the expansive beaches and along palm tree lined avenues. Finally, we arrived in Grand Case, the town we had decided to stay in. The small town was packed with a variety of waterfront restaurants from tasty Lolos, an outdoor grill and basic table service, to 5-star, Michelin-rated havens.

Our hotel, the Grand Case Beach Club, had a private gate and white exterior walls. The gate opened to a cobblestone driveway and tropical landscapers dream. Our check-in was quick and we situated ourselves in our suite, outfitted with a patio, lounge chairs, full kitchen, and fresh cut flowers spelling out a welcome.

We didn't waste much time before hitting the beach, and took in the ocean breezes from the deck of the Sunset Cafe and Grill attached to the hotel. The cafe was built around the only large rock that jutted out past the beach all along Grand Case. It offered amazing views of the beach and as it turns out...the sunset.







We found our favorite vacation spot on our first night there. Two lounge chairs sat alone in a guarded alcove, part of a wrap around deck on the other side of the rock, pushed out into the ocean. An unobstructed view of the sunset with room to play! As you may have guessed we visited the same exact spot every night and even did a silhouette photo shoot one night.


We tried out best to dig through our books and online resources, the hotel offered free wireless, to find ideas for activities the next day but couldn't be bothered to lure ourselves away from the beach. Our one outing, the grocery store to stock up on goodies for our fridge and liquor cabinet, proved to be exhausting, yet cultural and fruitful. We came away with enough groceries to feed us for 3-nights and 4-days along with enough booze and wine to keep us tided over most of the time for under 100 Euros.



Of course the store was an intresting experience, with all its unique fruit and European-style lay-out.






Our island adventures included a full driving tour of the island, with jumps in and out of the car for beach time and photos. We saw the drastic differences between the Dutch and French sides of the island, which do not maintain a strict border control, and cherished France's white sand beaches over Holland's casinos and packed marinas. We visited the nude beaches of Orient Bay, which was oddly paired with the main water sport activity area on the island, and took in some serene breezes at Oyster Bay.










We came across some magnificent wine bars, like Bachus, tucked away in strip malls and back allys. We saw the backstreets of the bigger towns and were reminded ofthe poverty that always surrounds resort islands such as this one.

We also did some adventuring close to the hotel. Each day we took the time to dive into the water and take in a swim. We remembered what it's like to splash in the waves and feel the pull of the water under your body as you swim freestyle. My fish fear, which I can't seem to track back to more than a water skiing incident 20 years ago (seriously brain, you can hold onto this but you can't remember the Italian language?) seemed to subside after our day out at sea snorkeling.

The French snorkeling instructor - Laureen, was a walking replica of Frank Azeria's character in 'Along Came Polly' - took Jerome another couple and me out to Creole Rock a couple miles off the beach to check out the wildlife. We spotted several new fish I hadn't seen before in past snorkling adventures but mostly, we interacted with the fish, thanks to our fun filled instructor. A long octopus darted under a rock to hide from us, while sea anemones came out to suction to the side of Laureen's mask. Somehow, it made my fish fear subside and my long afternoon swims became much more comfortable.





On my birthday, which was the Tuesday before we left the island, we planned a special day aboard a sailboat, which was headed out to Anguilla for the day. The trip was canceled that morning and we turned to find a new plan. Still adjusting to our first real beach vacation since we got together 10 years ago, we took some time to sit and sink our toes in the sand. Then we took more time to swim and take long hot showers. Eventually we knew we needed lunch and headed to the close by wine bar for escargot and taste bud shattering cheeses. As you can see, our day rolled along, unplanned and perfect. Evening rolled around and we made reservations at a nice restaurant in town recommended by a close friend's parents which turned out to be incredible and blew away the lunch I just had (previously rated as my top meal on the island). Overall, an amazing birthday and wonderful trip.

Boston - in less than 48 hours

I've visited Boston 5 times in the past, and had an entirely different experience each and every time. From my first trip in high school with my parents, where I stood in awe of the stacked brick houses and picturesque river and bridges, to my last trip, where I strolled the city comfortably with a post-local snapping photos of towering churches and tree lined streets. Every trip has been a good trip and while I've never spent more than a few days there some places have left a lasting impression. An Ode to some of my favorite spots....and moments during my last trip with my kind tour guide and great friend, Marisa.





The Boston Commons



The New England Holocaust Memorial















Beacon Hill













The original Cheers bar, which is actually called Bull & Finch Pub, "where everybody knows your name,".....





Marisa and I enjoying some beers at Cheers





Swan Lake






Back Bay

Headed to SF, via subway, train, and plane

Getting to the airport in Queens by 6 am was an adventure of its own. Managing subway schedules, LIRR schedules and air train departure times is something I’m not used to dealing with. Normally, I fly out later in the day, when the frequency of the trains allows me to hop on a train headed in my direction every few minutes. But, alas I made it to my 7 am flight, passing through a sweaty Harlem subway platform, an eerie empty Penn Station and finally an over crowded airport with ridiculous long security lines.

Virgin America flew me in to the city by the bay on a sunny Wednesday afternoon. Although they got me there safely and my ticket was fairly cheap they did not live up to my expectations of making flying more fun. My personal TV -- full of news and sports stations -- seemed to “loose the signal” every 20 minutes or so, which happens to be the same amount of time for me to really get involved in a program. The seats were comfortable but the seat back did not recline as far as they do on other planes and no one was handling the row of children behind me (who seemed to be immune to my laser-like stares and stern tone). I don’t think I’ll shell out an extra 50 bucks in the future to fly them and still rate Jet Blue as my domestic airline of choice.

I stepped outside of the airport to meet my chariot, which as it turns out was not waiting patiently for me curbside, but was running a bit late. I occupied a spot of sun on the sidewalk of the International terminal, and took part in some very entertaining people watching. Once my parents arrived, we jetted over to Grandma Alice’s place in San Francisco. Alice had obviously been preparing for our visit and was dolled up for a day in the city. We promptly departed for the Inner Sunset to hit up one of my all time favorites for lunch, Park Chow. In their regular fashion, they kindly offered to open the rooftop for us and turn on some heat lamps to combat the fog that had settled on the neighborhood.







After our tasty lunch, which was a great welcome back to California fresh cuisine, we headed a block or so into Golden Gate Park. As we headed for the Academy of Science Museum we passed through some of my favorite Park spots, such as Shakespeare’s Garden and the Arboretum. The Science Museum was packed for free Wednesday but still wowed me with its shiny new façade. So, we headed across the street to the De Young Museum and took in the amazing ariel views from its tower (the only building above the tree line in the Park).

















After taking Alice home we left the fog behind and headed to Fairfax. My mom had already prepared an amazing dinner of garlic grape chicken, which happens to be my favorite. The icing on the cake, if a person can provide such a thing, was our guest of honor and conversationalist extraordinaire Jenny Bray. Aside from being one of the loveliest girls I know she has this inner drive and intensity that will always amaze me. Jenny and I headed down to Nave’s, the only real bar I remember from my college days left in downtown Fairfax. Jen Norman (now you see why I have to use last names) who could entertain a rock with her amazing stories and cross-country edge met us up for a spell. She warded the few men offering to buy us drinks off with a stare and cracked me up for a solid hour. She amazes me with her strength and openness and we always have a blast together.

Jenny spent the night at my parent’s house, as her car had broken down the night before, and I borrowed dad’s porche to drive to Jenny to work in San Rafael and head over to my hairdressers. The entire ride Jenny and I tossed back and forth between enjoying the car, and remising about how much we despised “girls like us” who received first tier cars in their high school and college days. It was a fun ride!

Haircuts in Marin are so much more than beautifying for me. They are a test of my wit, endurance of my humor and mini-therapy sessions. Rinelle has known me since I was 5 and never lets me forget who I really am, no matter how wrapped up I get in college, city life or a job.

Wine Tasting along the Silverado Trail

My new pretty hairdo and I ran dad’s car home and picked up mom and dad for a day of wine tasting along the Silverado Trail. The sun came out for us just in time for a perfect lunch as ZinsCafe in Napa and stayed strong through our tasting. We started out at Reynolds Family Winery, which had a cozy feeling to it and perfect tasting room (not to shiny, not to cold, not to closed in…just right). I enjoyed all our tastings but really loved their Los Careros Pinot Noir, which felt like silk on my tongue (I’m not the world’s most sophisticated taster). Our tasting host, Steve, turned out to be the best we had all day and snapped a shot of us on their patio.

Next we dropped by Darioush Winery, on a recommendation from a friend and tasted just one wine, their signature Shiraz which was quite possibly the best wine we tasted all day. It was perfect in every way and left us reeling for more. Unfortunately the tasting room was way to cold and sterile for us to stick around for a full tasting or bottle purchase (not to mention the overly snotty tasting room employees), but we did have some fun taking photos in their Middle Eastern themed building.









Next we marched to Clos du Val Winery, which felt a bit more like home, with heavy ivy climbing up the brick building that housed their tasting room. Their Stags Leap Cabs were big and bright and offered us the best taste of Cabs all day. The tasting room staff was beyond helpful and even printed us out a map to my friend’s house for later that day.























They sent us next door to Chimney Rock Winery, which left an impression on us from the instant we began down its driveway. The white stucco building stood out between the surrounding vineyard and green hillside. We saddled up to the U-shaped tasting bar for the most unique tasting I’ve ever had. I enjoyed all their wines but feel in love with their Rose of Cab Franc with somehow managed to maintain its blueberry and cherry smells while leaving my tongue clean and light after each sip. Of course, we took some photos there too.






Silverado Vineyards, set high up on a hill overlooking the valley, had the best views of the day. Their Sangiovese was the bottle of choice for gifting to my friend Emily, later that night. We snapped some photos off their patio and took to the road to meet Emily’s newest edition to her family.













Emily, and her three belle’s welcomed us into their home just off the Silverado Trail for some evening snacks and vino. Her lovely mate, Asade, and his friend chatted up my parents while Emily showed me around the house, played with the new puppy, feed the kids and quite seriously juggled her whole house in one effortless motion. She amazes me and has always added a new element to my life that I never knew I was missing.

I rushed home to meet one of my permanent friends (I use this term instead of “forever friend” due to the cheesy nature of that phrase), who entered my life in high school and has the amazing ability to make me feel like nothing has changed no matter how rarely we see each other. My general rule of thumb: When you feel like no time has passed between you and a friend, despite the fact that years have gone by, you know you’ve found an amazing friend and someone you need to hold onto.

So, my permanent friend Luke and I had a drink at the Sleeping Lady bar and venue in downtown Fairfax and discussed our next steps and biggest ambitions. Nothing finer that discussing a positive future!

Making shopping fun

Friday began with some basic errands, coffee, mechanic and Costco, which was actually quite a bit of fun (my mom has special abilities to these mundane activities fun). Then off I went to meet Shirah, another wonderful permanent friend at my favorite local lunch spot, Comforts in San Anselmo. She recently gave birth to a beautiful baby girl who I snapped some shots of, but somehow missed taking a photo of my friend and I. Baby Harley slept throughout the full lunch, which gave Shirah and I the time to catch up. We chatted about life changes, work and the amazing Chinese chicken salads and bid out adieus.

San Francisco welcomed me back with sun-speckled arms. I entered the city under the premise there was to be heavy layers of fog and was pleasantly surprised to see a sunny Japan town when I pulled up to Mike and Marlis’ house (my home away from home). We spent the evening at a few new spots I can’t wait to get back to. Mars Bar -- in what I’ve always referred to as the flower district (I think others refer to it as an extension of SOMA now) -- had a great outdoor seating area and quick service. We moved onto a house party in the mission and enjoyed some old time San Francisco apartment mojitos. Then we headed to one of my new favorite taco stands in the Mission, Puerto Vallarta, for some carne asada goodness. The murals on the wall were highly entertaining and the burritos were amazing!

Our last stop at the much-hyped Zeitgeist was a blast. The homage sign to the Tamale Lady inside and incredible outdoor patio filled with long picnic tables provided plenty of entertainment and fresh air.

Gastro tourism in San Francisco

Although my lovely hosts and best friends Mike and Marlis may not have signed up for it, I was keen to do a gastro tourism tour of SF to get caught up on all the hot new chefs and amazing places I’ve continued to read about during my time on the East Coast. I rarely have the luxury of taking a full day in SF to do any one thing, and don’t usually get picky about my restaurant choices when I’m with a big group or at a family gathering (since the people and the location are usually the top priorities).

So, Saturday we headed down to Fort Mason for lunch and some stellar views from Greens, the vegetarian restaurant that occupies part of building A. The food was divine, with all garden fresh vegetables and imaginative dishes. I’ve read about Annie Somerville's recipes for a while but the tacos, which pablano peppers and cherry tomatoes were the winners at the table for me. The linguine with zucchini, cherry tomatoes, shallots, basil, breadcrumbs and pecorino had one of the most flavorful sauces I’ve had without a meet base. The hummus, and side salad with beets and goat cheese were also to die for.
















We ventured around the city, taking in the ferry building, sections of SOMA, Hayes Valley (which included a quick stop at Absinth for some well crafted beverages) and Ocean Beach before heading off to dinner.










And what a dinner it was. I heard about Thanh Long from several of my NYC friends, who lived in SF at one time in the lives. Located all the way out on 46th Avenue and Judah Street in the outer sunset this succulent crab restaurant draws in serious crowds. The dinning rooms (one in the front and one upstairs) were filled with the smell of fresh roasted crab. Every table was packed with dinners feasting on king crabs and noodles – which was almost too much to watch as we waited for our table. Once seated we requested a couple of beers and a glass of wine and got to business. We ordered two crabs and some noodles for the three of us to share.

The roasted crab was perfectly cooked and must have been injected with butter and spices because every bite was flavorful and fresh. However they did it, they did it right!